Hong Kong

Dorothy and Jo visited Hong Kong, to meet Luke who was living there then, leaving Spain on 14th January 2003 and returning on 27th January

This is Jo’s write up of their trip

Tuesday 14th /Wednesday 15th  

Left Javea with Mum at 12.00 lunchtime to go to Valencia.   Tony saw us off at the airport and we flew to Munich at 15.20. Nice smooth flight over the snow-covered Pyrenees and Alps – arrived in Munich at 17.40 where we travelled around the Duty-Free and waited for our connection flight at 20.50 to Hong Kong.

Seats on the plane were right by Emergency Exit and gave us lots of leg-room, but unfortunately, also right next door to the loos, therefore, found it very difficult to sleep all night – probably excitement did not help either.   No views from the plane as travelled through the night to arrive in Hong Kong on Wednesday 15th at 3.35 in the afternoon to be met at the Airport by Luke – who had wider shoulders and more muscle due to exercise at the Gym!!!

We travelled in his open-top BMW into Hong Kong getting wonderful views all the way to his apartment – Tower 5 Parkview apartment 2141 88 Tai Tam Reservoir Road.   It was like walking into his Denmark Home – not a thing out of place – shiny polished wooden floors and stainless steel and glass high tech kitchen.

Looked down from the 21st floor onto Tai Tam Reservoir in one direction from the lounge and kitchen, and down to Hong Kong city and the Parkview hotel in the other direction from the bedrooms

 

 

View from Luke’s flat

Thursday 16th 

Saw Luke off to work at 8.30  quite a nice day even though a little cloudy – although we came to realise after a few days that being 21 floors up there was often a mist in the morning.   Sometimes on opening the kitchen window there was a force 8 gale blowing through the apartment.

Went down to the Hotel and bought a set of bus tickets and caught the Parkview Coach down to Star Ferries on the harbour.   Three stops on the way the second being Pacific Mall.   Met a very pleasant lady on the bus who lived in Luke’s Block and had lived in Hong Kong for 2 years but was originally from South Africa. She expressed great interest in Spain where she and her husband would like to retire.  She showed us where to walk and gave us lots of tips.

We walked through the City gazing like absolute tourists at the skyscraper modern blocks, crossing several main roads on modern stainless steel walkways, still with our heads raised upwards.

Gran Sight-seeing

We finally found an oasis in the middle of this amazing city  Hong Kong park where we stopped and had two coffees – HK$66  (1Euros = 8HK$) or £1=12HK$)   i.e. £5.50!!!   A taste of prices in this city.

 

 

 

We walked through this delightful park with many beautiful plants and flowers and trees all named for reference until we reached Pacific Shopping Mall. Three floors of designer shops i.e. Escada with a “too die for” evening dress at the equivalent of £8000 (only to see it a few days later in another shop) and an exquisite cashmere cream cardigan with pearls for a mere £800!!   Decided to visit M&S where we bought jeans for Mum and a blue shirt for me at far more reasonable prices.

Walked back through the Park for some peace and quiet and returned to the  restaurant in the park where we had a late lunch then back to Star Ferries looking all the time for the Information Centre (not to be found)

Went into the Mandarin Oriental Hotel to acquire a map from reception then back  on the Coach to Parkview where we stopped and went into the Supermarket which had absolutely everything (very European) catering for Parkview clientele.

Had light supper of very Spanish meal – Palma Ham and Melon, and scrambled egg and asparagus – Luke had already told us he had to go out with a Client for Dinner but was back by 10.30 – Had another early night

Friday 17th 

Got up at 8.00 am – Sun shining.  Luke went off to work and we went down on the usual coach at 10.15 to Star Ferry   Finally found the Tourist office which had moved to a new building 99 Queens Road Central.  Another amazing skyscraper – the Tourist office was in the Basement!   Very lovely helpful staff – in fact so far that is all we have met – They gave us walking tours info and told us where to find the Chinese Tourist Office/Travel agency as we wanted to look into a trip to China after research decided against.

After walking a little distance along Queens Road found a Ginsing wholesaler but unfortunately could only buy in tea form and not tablet form (bought some but yet to know  what it is like!)   Then stopped for a morning cold drink sitting outside in a lovely restaurant – two unusual drinks for HK$15   Found out later from Luke it was the latest trendy restaurant in Hong Kong.  Trust mum and I to find it.

We then jumped on a tram at Des Voeux Road Central and travelled all the way to North Point.   A memorable experience, we were the only tourists on board, had great views of the whole area.   Got off at North Point and went to the local loo which was perfectly spotless.  Then returned to the tram and went back to the far end beyond Sheung Wan and the Macau Ferry Point – an area of wholesalers with numerous varieties of dried fish.

Alighted on the return trip at our favourite Hong Kong Park where we went for another peaceful meal outside by the water (HK$224) and watched many Hong Kong girls getting married and having pictures taken.   Walked back to Star Ferry and returned on the coach to Parkview.

Went out with Luke to Restaurant on the Peak opposite the Tram Station area.  Lovely restaurant with a lot of outside dining.   A little noisy for Mum who I think the travel had caught up with.   Lovely meal with very attentive staff.

Saturday  18th 

Luke took us out for the day in the car leaving at 10.30 am (early we later found out for him – bit of a shock to the system)  Went to Deepwater Bay through a shortcut by the side of the golf club.   Walked down to the beach which was rather empty considering it was a beautiful sunny day.   Then drove on to Repulse Bay and Stanley.

Carried on to Sheko (Luke’s favourite area) with a wonderful golf course.   We began to realise the different sides of Hong Kong finding all this area very green with lovely beaches.

 

Went back to Stanley and wandered around the market having late Lunch at the Boathouse on the veranda looking out to sea (HK$ 642 for 3)

 

Day out with Luke Repulse Bay

Luke & Jo after a visit to Stanley Market

On the return trip to the apartment went to see a new apartment block at South Bay at 48,000 HK per month but did have a balcony looking out to sea and was not too high rise.   Luke was tired after his early morning starts so returned to the apartment for a rest!

In the evening Mum stayed in as feeling a little tired and I went out for dinner with Luke to an Egyptian Restaurant Habibi and met his friends John and Kimberley.  The meal was extremely delicious and had the added attraction of Belly dancing.

After the meal Luke put me in a cab (10.30 pm) and went to meet other friends to come home after 3.00

Sunday 19th 

Another lovely day out with Luke this time going through the tunnel to Kowloon and into the New Territories – Sai Kung Peninsula and Sai Kung West Country Park.

Luke persuaded guards at the entrance to allow us through with the car as he had his elderly Granny with him (normally you have to leave the car and walk miles)  Arrived at Wong Shek where he booked a small private boat to take us out to Tap Mun Chau Island where there was a small very interesting temple.  This was a very small island with a local fishing village where they collected fish into nets and increased their size with extra feeding before they sell.   The boat trip took us past many more small islands – a very picturesque area – with many families having their picnics in Wong Shek when we returned.   There are actual barbeques set up in picnic areas to enable people to bring their own food.  Many skewers and chicken feet in view!

Drove back to Stanley and had another lovely meal at Bayside Brasserie overlooking the sea in brilliant sunshine (HK$ 8oo for 3)  Had another walk around the market and bought two t-shirts and a dressing gown for Mum plus a new inventive heat pad.  Returned to Parkview where we watched Lord of the Rings with subtitles for Mum! 

Monday 20th

After saying goodbye to Luke who was going away until Thursday we caught a 10.00 coach down to Star Ferry went into a new exhibition of HK Infrastructure and sent email pictures to Tony.   Then Ocean Park Bus at Star Ferries to Ocean Park – through a tunnel to Aberdeen – another interesting trip as on the top floor of the bus and was able to have clear views of the journey.   Arrived in Ocean Park and  went on the cable car out to the end of the peninsula

Cable car Ocean Park

Wandered around a fun fair area but decided not for us!

Visited the Sea Lions at Pacific Pier and were fortunate that it was feeding time

Travelled down a long escalator from marine land to Bird Paradise it was wonderful to see birds although enclosed (high netting) still had plenty of space to fly and enjoy their environment.  Saw flamingos and many other birds we did not recognise.    Visited reproduction of Chinese home and temple

 

Gran in Repro Chinese temple & village

On the return trip up the escalator saw the mine train (which went over the sea and looked very scary)  Looked back to Aberdeen Harbour.

Aberdeen Harbour from Mine train

On return to the cable car visited the Atoll Reef aquarium which is on three levels and you actually have the fish swimming over your head in some places.   Also visited Shark Aquarium.   There was a show Dolphin show on at Ocean Theatre but we had a late lunch at Seaview Café which was disappointing although the views were spectacular looking over to Repulse Bay and Stanley.   Finally got the Cable car back to the main entrance area and wanted to visit the Giant Panda but realised time was running out and we just managed to get the last bus back to Star Ferry then coach back to the apartment where we cooked a meal for ourselves as Luke was away until Thursday.

Watched a video with subtitles!  Then early night

Tuesday 21st 

Up at 7.00 am and coach to Star Ferries to meet Coach trip at 8.30 by Queens Pier..

Met up with Sue – travel guide for “The Land Between Tour” HK$ 335 each which included everything.  Surprisingly only six other people were on the tour.   Went through the tunnel to Kowloon and then stopped at Yuen Yuen Institute: a temple complex dedicated to three major religions i.e. Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism in Hong Kong.   Visited our own Buddha – As I am year of the Horse and it was the end of this special year lots of offerings and incense and people surrounded this particular Buddha – Mum is the year of the Dragon

 

Jo at Yuen Yuen Temple Year of the Horse

Saw many people visiting this temple as it was almost Chinese New Year and people were praying for different things for the New Year

Returned to the coach and Sue who on the journey had a wealth of information about Hong Kong where she had lived for 12 years

Next arrived at Tai Mo Shan Lookout where we should have got a birds-eye view of the western side of Kowloon and the New Territories but unfortunately, the weather was against us and everything was covered in a heavy mist.

Moved on to Luk Keng Village –  a typical Hakka village and a bird sanctuary where Chinese pond herons and night herons nest.  Met a local lady and bought a luffer for the bath which I did not realise was a dried plant (10 cents).

The next stop was Sam Mun Tsai Fishing Village – a quiet village where again we saw more fish breeding in submerged cages.  Mum was amazed watching a fisher-woman come into shore to do her washing – fill up her small boat with drums of water and then paddle back to her boat home

Sam Mun Tsai fishing village

Back on the coach to Tai Po Market which was a showcase of fresh produce from farms nearby and imported items from mainland China just across the border.

Tai Po Market

Chinese New Year Plants on sale(Kumquats)

The number of fresh vegetables (many unknown to us) was amazing and during our stay in Hong Kong, this is what we enjoyed the most.    Many stalls just had many varieties of dried fish and also there were beautiful flower stalls with many Chinese New Year Plants i.e. Kumquat trees – and other plants of yellow/gold we did not know but as gold is a sign of wealth these plants represent good fortune for the new year.

Late lunch at the Pak Shing Restaurant at the Hong Kong Jockey Club at Sha Tin.   A feast of 8 dishes was rapidly served as we were the only people there – and our tour only consisted of 6 people!  Sha Tin was originally known as “Lek Yuen” or “source of the clear water”  a reference to the Shing Mun River.  During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) many farmers settled in the area, taking advantage of the excellent water supply.   At its height, more than 50 villages were located here, the most famous of which was Sha Tin village.   When the New Territories were leased to Britain in 1898 a British Commissioner surveyed Lek Yuen and asked the name of the area,   A villager told him it was called Sha Tin and since then the name has been used to describe the entire area.   In 1970 the Government began building satellite towns in the New Territories to provide housing for the mushrooming population.   Sha Tin was the first new town developed and was built on land reclaimed from the sea.

Finally back to Kowloon where we decided to leave the coach at the YMCA and we walked up Nathan Road and round the back streets where we bought a watch I had a Chinese foot massage and was informed of the reason for sore ankles and feet was my bad back and neck!   Felt wonderful after this and caught the ferry back to Hong Kong Island and on the way bought some very nice cheap summer shoes.

Then back home on Parkview coach from Star Ferries and did a shop in the supermarket.  A little tired so had a meal and watched one of Luke’s Movies

Wednesday 22nd

The usual coach down to Star Ferry (getting to be a habit but the easiest way to get to the main area).  Then caught a ferry to Cheung Chau Island.  Met some lovely Chinese children practising their English.   These naughty boys just wanted to be in the picture

 

3 Chinese Boys on Ferry to Cheung Chau Island

Cheung Chau (meaning “long island” in Cantonese) is one of the most popular of all the outlying islands.   And we were told by many people the best to visit.  Shaped like a dumbbell it took us 45 minutes from Hong Kong Central.

We arrived to find a very picturesque island with a waterfront that bustled with activity.   Butcher shops and vendors selling fresh fish, shellfish, fruit and vegetables.  The small local restaurants and food stalls do a brisk trade at the weekend but fortunately for us, it was reasonably quiet as it was mid-week and out-of-season.

During the week apparently, it is as we found it, a quiet residential island, but at weekends it’s a different story with ferries packed with sightseers and holidaymakers and the population doubles.   Cheung Chau is most famous for its week-long Bun festival held during the fourth moon in the lunar calendar (April/May)  The celebration culminates in a unique and colourful street procession.

We were fascinated by the sight of fishing families maintaining traditional lifestyles aboard authentic wooden junks equipped with radar and computer systems.  As there is no vehicular traffic on this island it was ideal for Mum and me to walk around it.

Wooden Junk Homes complete with radar & computers

We walked along Praya street the waterfront street where seafood was drying in the sun and arrived at the Pak Tai Temple built more than two centuries ago.  The temple was dedicated to the Taoist god of the sea.  Pak Tai’s power is symbolised by the serpent and tortoise under his feet.  The temple displayed many features of traditional Chinese temple architecture such as ceramic figurines on roof ridges and stone lions on the forecourt.

Walking along Pak She street we found a typical Chinese house amidst shops selling herbal medicines or selling pungent, purplish-brown shrimp paste or baking lotus-seed cakes.

Chinese House Pak She St Cheung Chau

 

From here we walked through the narrow sandbar linking the two hilly ends of the island and arrived on the Eastern side where we found Tung Wan a popular public beach.  In these waters, Hong Kong’s first Olympic Games gold medallist Lee Lai-shan practised windsurfing as a schoolgirl.

We walked up the hill past the Warwick Hotel filled with noisy Chinese holidaymakers dining and arrived at the Kwan Kung Pavilion – a gilded lacquered temple dedicated to Kwan Tai the Taoist Golf of War and Righteousness.

From here we walked back to the Ferry area and got a small private boat to Sai Wan just further round the headland where there was a beautiful quiet beach down from the Cemetery.

 

Walked back through the Cemetery back to the village where we stopped at the harbour and had another late lunch which was delicious sitting outside by the sea – Very Mediterranean.

 

 

Had another walk around the streets after our lunch and Mum bought a Bamboo Hat. Caught the ferry back to Hong Kong along with our new Chinese school pals!  Back to the apartment and  had a quiet evening as we were tired from our walking

Thursday 24th

Another trip down to Star Ferry where we got the Peak Bus to the top and then Tram Back down as we were having lunch with some friends of Luke at the restaurant that Nicole owned in Wyndham Street called “Alibi”   Stacey also joined us.  Had a wonderful meal with lovely company then Mum and I walked along Hollywood Road and bought Luke an antique wooden planter for his house.  Also walked through Gage Street/Lyndhurst Terrace/Pottinger Street with small stalls selling ribbons and bows and into Li Yuen Street where we found a couple of bargains – a jumper for me and a cardigan for mum.   Unfortunately, we tried to return the following day to buy some more but the stall had vanished!!

Arrived at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel where we had a delicious afternoon tea with Palm Court Music then back to Star Ferry and coach to the apartment where we also did some shopping in the Supermarket.  Spent the evening in with Luke who had just returned from his travels and we all chilled out!

Friday 25th 

Luke went off to work – first dull day.  Had planned to go to Lamma Island but due to the weather just went down to central and went on the Mid Level Escalator to Soho Area and had a superb Menu of the Day at 2 Sardines.  I Bought Luke a second planter for a fresia plant we had found for him.   Caught the tram to Government House where we found was the only place to get  The Hong Kong Year Book for Tony.   Bought Ginsing in tablet form to bring back for us all from a local pharmacist.

Went out for an Indian Meal with Luke down in Mid-levels – delicious.  Mum and I came back to the apartment and Luke went on to see friends.

Shoppers in Hong Kong

 

Saturday 26th

Mum and I stayed in bed until 11.00 reading!!   No point getting up as Luke was lost to the world.

Luke took us out in the car to find where Tony had lived in the Eredine apartment in Mount Kellett on the Peak – the flats still there.

Then drove down to the Soho area where we had only disappointing lunch and then strolled around whilst Luke had a haircut.  Bought some DVDs.   Back to the apartment for a rest!

Went out at 7.30  Taxi to Star Ferry with Luke to meet up with a friend of Luke’s

Blaise and his mother Pat.   Crossed by ferry to Kowloon and walked to the Peninsular Hotel where we had a fantastic meal at the top with amazing views – particularly in the Ladies Loo!   Ferry back to Hong Kong Island and late drink at the top of the Mandarin Oriental then taxi back with Pat to apartment whilst Luke and Blaise went out.

Peninsula Hotel Night Out Luke Jo Dorothy

 

Sunday 27th  

Packed and all sorted by 10.00 but no sight of Luke (due to his late-night).  Finally went out for last drive to say goodbye to Hong Kong Island.  Drove to Sheko and back into Hong Kong (my mistake took us right through the city and hit traffic)and decided to go back to Stanley for lunch by the sea.  As the weather turned dull returned to the apartment and at 7.30 p.m. Luke took us back to the airport where we said our sad goodbyes and headed back to Munich.

Luke & Gran at the end of a super holiday

Fortunately, we both slept most of the way although I watched the Movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” which was certainly worth staying awake for.

After a six-hour wait for our connection in Munich for Valencia – and a lot of book reading and people watching finally met Tony at Valencia at 2.35 p.m.   Both Mum and I were glad to be back home in Spain and fresh clear air but with lots of wonderful memories of our trip to Hong Kong and seeing Luke.